Gili Meno Island, Lombok, Indonesia.
Gili Meno is a tiny island in Indian Ocean where it meets the Pacific by the Wallace Line, a few kilometres off the northwest coast of Lombok and 35 kilometres east of Bali; sometimes called ‘Robinson Crusoe Island’, it’s just like a castaway island…fabulous, fine white sand beaches bordered by calm turquoise sea and a tranquil laid-back atmosphere.
Whilst planning a holiday to Bali, I saw reference to the Gilis and decided to go see for myself! There are three small islands in the archipelago: Gili Air (closest to Lombok and where the main population lives), Gili Trawangan (known as Party Island, it’s the livelier choice and a backpacker’s haven) and Gili Meno (the smallest of all, secluded and peaceful). Gili Meno is one of the most beautiful islands in the world and fairly challenging to get to. Just off the usual tourist routes, surprisingly there’s no mention in the holiday brochures, it’s not a mass destination or even an exclusive luxury resort. Let’s keep it that way!
Our adventure started in Bali (Indonesia) where I’d chosen to stay in a lovely traditional hotel, the Peneeda View on Sanur beachfront. The only direct boat I could find from Bali to Gili Meno Island departed from Amed, several hours drive from where we were staying. Another option was to get the ferry to Nusa Penida (the island with the famous viewing point over Kelingking Beach), then carry on to the Gilis. It seemed easier to catch a fast boat from nearby Pandang Bai straight to Gili T, then get the connecting speedboat…
The Balinese were celebrating the Hindu ‘New Year’s Eve’ on this particular day in March and, although it promised to be fun, next day was Nyepi – a ‘Day of Silence’ when everyone stays quietly at home, no one is allowed out, not even tourists who have to remain in their hotels.
Imagine the scene…everyone was eager to leave Bali before the crackdown!
At Pandang Bai I purchased boarding tickets -the quay was packed, it was hot and the boats were full.
We eventually got on the last ferry of the day, sat on deck with our legs dangling overboard and enjoyed the ride.
The crossing to Gili Trawangan was exhilarating and the atmosphere on ‘Party Island’ amazing… Arriving late afternoon meant the last connecting fast boat to Gili Meno had long gone but a crewman got his uncle to take us over on an outrigger, straight to our beachfront accommodation!
Our complex, Gazebo Gili Meno was beautifully sited beside a white sand beach fringed with coconut trees, the prettiest location on the island. The grounds looked like a park with wooden chalets dotted around the green gardens and the main gazebo acting as reception cum alfresco dining room. The bathrooms, like many in this part of the world are ‘half open’, with the sink and loo under a roof but the shower section with only netting overhead. You don’t need hot water in this climate and pressure is low anyway as the island doesn’t have a fresh water source.
We had our first swim in the amazing clear turquoise sea with views to Lombok mainland and Mount Rinjani volcano on the horizon. The gorgeous wide beach seemed endless, the sand powdery fine. The Gili islands are protected by coral reefs so the water is habitually calm; this afternoon it resembled a lake.
There are no roads or motorised traffic on the Gilis, just tracks and horse-drawn carriages along the sand trails that encircle the islands. We walked along the sandy path bordering the beach towards the ‘main’ tourist area, passing traditional accommodation in wooden cabins and a new luxury retreat.
Juan and I stopped at one of the small beachfront eateries tempted by the huge barbecued fresh fish skewers served with corn-on-the-cob. We eventually retraced our steps torch in hand – someone invited us to join a beach party, but it had been a long day…
Next morning breakfast was served on the terrace and we ordered tropical juice, pancakes, omelet, fresh fruit, and coffee; wonderfully healthy and enough to give us energy all day! Then went off to explore…don’t worry about the language, in many parts of Indonesia, English is widely understood.
We came across a turtle sanctuary which helps ensure survival of loggerhead and green turtles, and watched the babies which are eventually returned to the sea. You can see the large turtles when you’re out snorkeling by the coral reef.
Continuing past the restaurants, then the pier where the public ferry to Lombok docks, there are backpacker huts and homestay accommodation in front of a bleached coral beach.
Although every effort is made to conserve and regenerate the coral reef, it has been damaged by hurricanes in the past. I noticed a dive school offering beginners courses, and I’d have jumped at the chance to learn, but didn’t have enough time. Diving in the Gili Islands is a cool experience.
We walked around the whole island which is encircled by beaches. The western coastline isn’t quite so attractive as the east shore where we were staying and there was little tourism apart from some eco lodges inland.
A small beach bar was the perfect spot to sit watching the sunset over Gili T across the water and Bali in the far distance. We left the sounds of music coming from the party island promising a lively night of entertainment, and continued around and back to our side of the island where the idyllic beaches start again.
A quick shower, change of t-shirt, shorts and flip flops, and we were back in ‘our’ restaurant for dinner…we sat on cushions with our legs under a low table at a typical wooden ‘brugak’ platform on the beach (actually quite uncomfortable for eating although it does look cool). Our place was very reasonable but it’s sensible to ask prices first. We’ve tried different fish in SE Asia, but nothing like this freshly caught black and white spotted one! I wandered off to see some stalls and came across two guys energetically fanning the embers of a primitive wood-fired BBQ desperately trying to get the rather large fish cooked…needless to say, the meal was eventually delicious!
We bought some bottles of chilled lager and spent ages lying on a canopied platform on the beach in front of our hotel with no one in sight, just the stars and moon overhead for light – very romantic indeed.
Next morning we relaxed on the beach again, taking advantage of this paradise on earth, and did some snorkeling.
I bought some pretty shell jewelry, the only souvenirs you can really take away apart from masses of photos and fantastic memories.
A young woman offered me a traditional Bali massage, so I met her later at a nearby café, where she had a massage bench on the beach.
She had been taught massaging techniques by her mother, a family tradition passed down generations.
I picked up our small backpack, and armed with sunscreen, mozzie repellent and bottled drinking water, trekked off around the island again, this time turning off a path to the lagoon; it’s an incredibly scenic setting by the mangroves.
We chanced across the local village in the centre of the island, a rural landscape of grazing farm animals, coconut plantations and traditional homesteads. The people we passed were pleasant and polite though not many tourists seem to venture here.
I spoke to some smiling ladies sitting with their children playing in a front yard and asked permission before taking photographs. From here, taking a different path back, we were found we were not that far from our beachside lodgings Gazebo Cottages.
Everyone in Indonesia seems to know someone who can do something for you, if they can’t do it themselves…a natural community spirit, being smart in a poor environment so everyone earns a little more money to exist on. Chatting to the young waiter at the beach café next door, he realized we were moving on to Lombok by ferry next morning…his friend could take us in an outrigger to the eco-resort we were heading for – it was directly across the sea!
This seemed a brilliant idea – no getting up at the crack of dawn and we’d save an hour’s taxi ride from Bangsal port on the other side. A sudden squall that night was a tad worrying but next morning the sea was smooth as glass again, just as well because the traditional longboats are quite shallow! Our receptionist was slightly perplexed as we leisurely ate breakfast, “Madam, how will you travel if you are leaving today? The ferry has already departed!”… A large dark muscular guy suddenly appeared and scooped up our bags, so hastily waving goodbye we strode after him. Part three of our Indonesia travels was under way!
It was a beautiful trip across the Strait of Lombok, one of those impromptu moments that stay in your memory for ever, in that little vessel with our capable boatman acting as guide.
We rounded the coast of Gili Air, then glided through open sea towards Mataram on mainland Lombok…and the small resort of beach huts I’d booked into came into sight, the Rinjani Beach Eco Resort. The owner’s wife, a lovely Parisian lady, couldn’t hide her amazement as we landed in such an unpredicted fashion. This set the scene for what was to be an amazing adventure on a fascinating island…Lombok!
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