Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay (2 Weeks in Vietnam)

“2 weeks discovering Vietnam. Cat Ba is a good base for exploring Halong Bay, an idyllic island which is mainly untouched by tourism. Fancy a cruise on a traditional junk, a nature walk through protected parkland or dinner at a floating restaurant? Cat Ba has it all…”

Visit Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay

Halong Bay is a place of great natural beauty where ancient fishing villages float on turquoise waters which gently flow between giant limestone karst rocks. The setting is unique in the world and, since becoming a UNESCO Heritage site in 1994, a must-see for everyone touring Vietnam.

Plan a trip to Halong Bay

Number 1 on Juan’s ‘wish list’, the two of us have travelled half way around the world to see Halong Bay… just imagine a 2 night cruise through the Bay of Tonkin, waking up to the legendary seascape, stopping at white sand coves and swimming in warm seas which resemble a succession of fairy-tale lagoons.

Reality kicks in a little late, it’s overcast and a bit chilly in Hanoi and further north the weather is miserably wet. Vietnam has distinct seasons and the regions are affected by two different monsoons so it’s best to make plans accordingly, particularly if you want to trek through the rice fields of Sapa in the Muong Hoa Valley.

On a 2 week visa-exempt itinerary to travel the length of the country, booking transport in advance is a way to save time and stress. A quick visit to The Church Travels the previous day sorted this out – minibus pickup from our guesthouse to Hanoi bus station, 3 hour coach ride to Haiphong City ferry terminal, 30 minute crossing to Cat Ba Island, and private bus from Phu Long pier to our accommodation.

We leave after breakfast, arrive before lunch and meanwhile have an amusing journey ‘chatting’ with a fun-to-be-with couple from Russia. Vietnam coach seats are not designed for large portly Europeans so Alex and Irene squeeze onto the back row beside us. Conversation flows, mainly by gesticulating and a few words in English!

Halong Bay is a sea area of some 1,500 km2 scattered with a labyrinth of 16,000 tiny islands and islets, on Vietnam’s Northeast coast. Ha Long City has become extremely popular and tourists from all over the world come here to enjoy the typical cruises.

Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba is one of the larger islands, still relatively unknown and laid back, only 10 km southeast of the Halong hub. Juan and I lodge in a secluded hotel down by Cai Beo wharf, the little harbour where the wooden cruisers depart. From the shore you can see the brightly painted fishing boats trawling in Lan Ha Bay and a floating village half hidden behind karst rocks in the distance. Picturesque even in the drizzle, the Cat Ba Archipelago must be absolutely gorgeous in the sunshine!

Cat Ba does not mean ‘furry felines’, and although the name translates to ‘sandy island’, it’s known as ‘Women’s Island’ according to local legend. A large part of the island is a Biosphere Reserve, a natural paradise where langur monkeys roam in a protected environment.

There a several settlements on the island but the majority of the locals live in the main village which is only a short walk up the steep road from Cai Beo wharf. Down the other side of the hill Cat Ba Town spills around a crescent shaped bay, a lively seaside resort with a long seafront promenade, floating restaurants and dozens of boats out on the water, cafes and hotels framing the waterfront.

Cruise to Monkey Island (Lan Ha Bay)

Travel agency touts are offering Halong Bay cruises, but visions of two days on a dank boat is not inspiring, and even a day trip through the mist doesn’t appeal. The tourist info bureau say there are no half day tours but I’m not deterred.

Finally, a hostel receptionist sells us tickets for an afternoon excursion after an in-depth conversation detailing the sights we’ll see out in ‘Halong Bay’. We are taken back to Cai Beo wharf on the back of a moped -yes, both of us sitting pillion behind the driver- to join package holiday guests on a two hour freebie outing on a launch that is only going to ‘Monkey Island’. And I thought I was being clever…

Speeding through Lan Ha Bay aboard the Catba Horizon is the highlight of our stay. Sarcasm apart, the short ride to Cat Dua ‘Monkey Island’ really is a unique experience. Landing is fun, you have to wade ashore – fine in flip-flops and swimwear but we’re all in jeans and boots. Trousers rolled up and footwear held high we jump for it, onto the soft sands of the lovely long beach.

A sunbathing paradise on bright summery day, this afternoon everyone is crowding up the steep narrow trail to the small island’s summit. The views are extraordinary, the light and my photos not so good, of a seascape encompassed by those unusual great rocks.

Floating Villages of Cai Beo

Catba Horizon sails back to Cat Ba Island by a different route, navigating the limestone formations where half-moon beaches hide in secret little coves.

We glide past the floating villages, clusters of wooden shacks built on platforms surrounded by junks and aquafarms, the homes and livelihood of the local community. Some four thousand people live in the waters around Cat Ba, it’s still authentic, not developed or sustained for tourism –people have been cultivating the sea off Cai Beo for more than 6,000 years.

Cat Ba Town – Football and Food

Cat Ba Town is celebrating big time, Vietnam’s first international football cup final. The whole town is out on the streets, men, women and children. Foreign holiday makers and backpackers all join in the excitement, waving the gold star studded red national flags.

The event is being televised across the nation on big screens in every town square. The atmosphere is electric but the game a bit jinxed and the outcome inevitable…held on a Russian pitch in midwinter and the Vietnamese lads have never played in the snow before.

The food in Cat Ba is generally good, and there’s a considerable choice of eateries – the high-end floating fish restaurants are romantic, and you’ll find lots of places to dine on the stretch just back from the promenade. Local tiger prawns and fish are specialties, and there’s lots of typical Vietnam-style pork or chicken noodle dishes, as well as international cuisine. Juan and I find a small family café with tasty home-cooked meals at a pocket-friendly price.

Alex and Irene come in beaming like long-lost friends, begging help with the menu. Alex mimics he likes spicy and we order for them, although by the laughter, grimaces and water gulped down, it’s evident I’ve misinterpreted his degree of “I like it hot”!

Talking of temperatures, they’ve decided to cancel their Halong Bay dream cruise because of the weather and are cutting their holiday short, longing to go back to the warmth and comfort of their home in Russia. Lots of farewell hugs and promises to visit each other someday, the best of travelling is the genuine people you meet along the way.

Our budget Hotel Dolphin is a bit neglected outside but the en-suite rooms are lovely, very cheap and air-conditioned (although wet clothes do dry out on dehumidify, I’ll rethink my Vietnam packing list to include rain gear before coming to Halong Bay again).

With no receptionist as such, the lodge is run by a sort of caretaker guy who lives on the premises with his family. The little girl is really cute, and the dexterity with how she slips her shoes on and off is so cool! In most Asian nations people take their outdoor footwear off when they come inside and often walk around barefoot. Our coach arrives and the toddler follows us, not talking but not shy either, she wants to come along on the next step of our journey!

It’s a shame to leave the Halong Bay behind but we’re off to Hue and the ‘Forbidden Purple City’ on the banks of the Perfume River.

Cat Ba Island – What to See and Do

1. Cat Ba Town – Hotels, cafeterias, floating restaurants, tourist info and boat excursions, seafront promenade, fishing dock…
2. Cai Beo Wharf – Boat terminal for Lan Ha Bay
3. Cat Ba National Park UNESCO Biosphere Reserve – Hike the trails and see an endangered primate, the Golden headed langurs, in their natural habitat
4. Cat Ba Fort and Cave Hospital – Sobering reminders of how the Indochina wars affected this island
5. Take a boat trip to Cat Dua ‘Monkey Island – Sandy beaches, bathing, snorkeling, hotel resort, restaurant, macaque monkeys, steep trail with views
6. Enjoy a day cruise in Lan Ha Bay – See the floating fishing villages and aquafarming, caves, islets, karst rock scenery
7. Book a boathouse cruise around Halong Bay

Getting Around Cat Ba Island

Cat Ba is wonderful if you love trekking or cycling, otherwise hire a moped to explore the island. Motor taxis are cheap and convenient too. There’s a wide choice of organized cruises and boat trips which can be booked though tour agencies or privately. Tourist buses run from the 2 ferry terminals to Cat Ba Town.

Accommodation on Cat Ba Island

Everything from luxury resorts to local home-stays, exclusive private junks or tourist houseboats.
Tip for budget travelers: We shared a large comfortable twin room with private bathroom for the same price as 2 bunks in a hostel dorm would have cost, breakfast included, and cheaper than a home-stay.

Getting to Cat Ba Island

From Hanoi: At Hanoi’s Luong Yen bus station you can purchase a combined bus/boat ticket which includes the ride to Haiphong City terminal and the hydrofoil ferry to Cat Ba (Phu Long pier). From here get a taxi or motor taxi to Cat Ba Town (or ask if there’s a seat on a tourist bus).
From Halong City: Get the ferry from Tuan Chau Island to Gia Luan pier on Cat Ba’s north coast (approx. 45 mins.), then get a bus or taxi into town.

Nearest Airports to Cat Ba and Halong Bay

• Cat Bi (Haiphong) International Airport 35 km – Direct flights from Ho Chi Minh and Da Nang
• Hanoi International Airport 140 km

2 week transport itinerary for North, Central and South Vietnam

So far on our around-the-world adventure, I have made my own transport arrangements – however in Vietnam, to keep to a visa-free 2 week schedule, it’s better to book ahead. The Church Travels has a smart little office just near Hanoi Cathedral. This travel agency was highly recommended, and the service and attention really lived up to expectations.

I had already mapped out a route taking in the towns I wanted (and had time) to see, and worked out some budget accommodation, so Gnoc just arranged all the transport for me, suggesting the best alternatives including coach, boat, train and domestic flights!

Total cost: 4,540,000 VND for 2 passengers, working out at 86€ each (2018).

Our Vietnam Travel Itinerary

• Minibus pick-up from hotel in Hanoi Old Quarter to Luong Yen bus station; Private coach to Hai Phong port; Inland waterway ticket for hydrofoil ferry to Cat Ba Island and tourist coach to our chosen accommodation on Cat Ba Island.
• Return coach to Cat Ba ferry terminal and return on hydofoil to Hai Phong.
• Coach to Ninh Binh train station (we continued on to Hue but recommend staying over for 2 days to see Tam Coq weather permitting).
• Overnight train to Hue (4 bed cabin with aircon).
• Coach from Hue to Hoi An.
• Coach from Hoi An to Da Nang airport; Flight with Jetstar to Ho Chi Minh city (includes luggage).

* Does not include drop-off at accommodation in Hue or Hoi An (we walked there) or in Ho Chi Minh (the airport shuttle bus is cheap and convenient, with several stops in the city centre.)

---

---