A Guide to The Alhambra Palace and Gardens
The Alhambra Palace and Gardens: Original text by Kali Marco / Photos of the Alhambra by Daniele Gonzalvez.
There is a bus up to the Alhambra Palace and gardens, on Sabika hill the highest part of Granada. It’s essential to book entrance tickets well in advance as the number of daily visitors is limited. I remembered the ornate buildings, intricate tilework, the statue lined patios, fountains and ornate gardens, from a school trip as a teenager, but this was Juan’s first time here, which is ironic as he’s Spanish!
You can get a guided tour which takes around three hours or explore the Alhambra at your own pace discovering the palaces and lovely gardens at leisure… one of the major tourist attractions in the world, this monumental complex is a remarkable UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered the 8th wonder of the world.
A Palatine citadel and former residence of the Kings of Granada, the Alhambra Palace is the emblem of Granada… ornate palaces and towers, the formal gardens shrouding courtyards with water features, these are just some of the attractions.
The Alhambra was once a Nasrid citadel, a city within a city. The Alcazaba was the defensive fortification, and the ornate Nasrid Palaces were the official residence of the Sultans of Granada. Meanwhile, the Generalife Palace with its peaceful gardens and orchards were set apart, a place where the Sultans relaxed with their families away from the stress of public life.
The Alcazaba citadel and towers are the oldest part of the Alhambra, built around the 9th century the fortress has watched over Granada for hundreds of years. The Nasrid Palaces date to the 13th century and the original Sultan’s Court.
There are 3 main buildings of interest where you can appreciate the intricate Islamic architecture: the ancient Mexuar which was used as a courtroom; Comares Palace and tower built around the famous Courtyard of the Myrtles; and the Palace of the Lions with its legendary central courtyard.
The Generalife was also built in 13th century, as the Sultan’s private residence, later revamped in Renaissance style for Queen Isabel’s Royal Court. Outstanding features include the Acequia Patio set between two majestic buildings, with an irrigation channel running up from river Darro to supply the Alhambra with fresh water.
The Moors planted the beautiful Alameda, a park of rose gardens, oranges orchards and myrtle groves where nightingales sing and water plays over the fountains and cascades. The word Alhambra describes the ‘reddish’ walled complex and reminds me of old Marrakech Medina, glowing dramatically at sunset in the fading twilight.
Ideas for 3 Days in Granada
I’ve visited the Alhambra Palace and gardens several times over the years, it is such a beautiful place. If you are only in Granada for 1 day, definitely go here first (book in advance) and then wander around the historic city centre in the afternoon. However, the perfect plan is to spend 2 or 3 days in Granada.
*PART ONE of our Ultimate Granada Guide is a 3-day itinerary through the old quarters of Granada which explains how to see the historical city sites, and the top things to see and do.
What to See in Granada Province
While it’s great to visit Granada for a weekend, and you can see the main sites in 2 or 3 days, ideally plan to spend 4 days to a week to enjoy nearby places. Discover the best places in Granada Province either on day trips or as a combined holiday away.
Granada is strategically located near the impressive Sierra Nevada mountain range and Spain’s top ski resort. If you’re searching for sun, head to down to the Costa Tropical, a great stretch of mainly unspoiled coastline with white-washed villages – Salobreña is my favourite, crowned by a castle overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the beach restaurants offer reasonably priced fresh seafood menus. Just down the coast, Almuñeca is an attractive and thriving holiday resort with endless gold sand beaches.
Málaga and the Costa del Sol are close-by to the south, and easy to reach from Granada by motorway.
Granada coastline is protected by the mountains, giving an almost tropical climate with mild winters suitable for growing exotic crops. In past centuries this area was renowned for sugar plantations -and rum factories- but these have gradually been replaced with mangoes and avocado groves.
The Las Alpujarras in the foothills of Sierra Nevada is an iconic landscape featuring old-fashioned hamlets and dramatic mountain scenery, often snowed over in wintertime.
Inland Granada Province is scenic too (bordering on Jaen and Murcia Provinces) with fields of silvery grey olive trees, and traditional villages such as Guadix where you can see real cave houses – people still live in the renovated dwellings and some are available as holiday homes.
Useful Information for Visiting Granada
Driving and parking in the town centre: Only authorized traffic should circulate in the city centre, everyone else is liable to be fined. It’s not always obvious where you’re allowed to drive, so locate a suitable car park before you leave home or conveniently book one through your hotel.
Official city tourist train: a time saving way of seeing the sites and getting your bearings.
Alhambra Palace: Entrance is now limited so booking is essential, at least a month beforehand.
Accommodation: There’s plenty of choice ranging from cheap and cheerful to high-end luxury. Prices are more expensive at weekends and booking is advisable. Look for a small central hotel within walking distance to the main sites.
When to visit: Winter for Xmas shopping and lights, skiing; Spring and Autumn have nice weather for sitting out at terraces and for seeing the sights; Summer (combine sightseeing with a trip to the coast).
Be careful with your wallet or bag, like most cities there are pickpockets, especially around the Cathedral area.
If you are coming/going from the Costa Blanca, an obligatory stop is the Venta Quemada restaurant beside the motorway direction Murcia… the typical café bar is open around-the-clock and serves great local produce (amazing tasting olives, tomatoes, sausages, cheese, meats, etc. and awesome filled baguettes. In the remarkable restaurant, which looks like a medieval banquet hall, the wide choice of a la carte food is wonderful, plentiful and reasonably priced.
How to Get to Granada
By Motorway
A-92 (Sevilla-Almería), connects to Murcia in the east, and west to Málaga.
A-44, Autovía de Sierra Nevada, Bailén-Motril, north to Jaén & Madrid, south to Motril (Costa Tropical).
By Air
Granada Airport (GRX): Granada-Jaén A-92, 17 km from city centre – airport bus transfer 3€;
Málaga Airport (AGP) Useful alternative 125 km from Granada, this major Spanish airport receives a great number of domestic and international flights – direct bus to Granada approx. 12€-14€.
By Train
High speed AVE to Madrid (via Antequera & Cordóba) takes just over 3 hours. Look at the map of train routes in Spain to see connections to other destinations.
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Excellent guide. Granada is near the top of my list when all this crap is over. Was just watching Rick Steves visit there. But I don’t know if I would have a full on hammam though. The only one I ever had was a scary experience.
The aromatic oil massage we had in Granada Hamman was some 30 minutes but only lying on your front, along arms, back and legs. Juan had a full body Thai massage once in Pucket – woman trod all over his back and nearly did him damage, haha!