The Souks and Snake Charmers of Marrakesh Medina (Morocco)
I was feeling excited as the flight came in to land at Ménara airport (Morocco); I’d always dreamed of seeing Marrakesh, imagining the legendary red-walled city that I’d only read about in novels or seen in those old-fashioned romantic movies.
Arriving in Marrakesh Medina
I’d borrowed a paperback guide book on Morocco, clued up on the local info and booked everything directly online, including accommodation at a Riad in the Medina of Marrakech. The management had arranged for a taxi to meet us because it’s complicated to drive through the labyrinth of narrow streets in the old fortified city.
The manager of Riad Sidi Mimoune was waiting as we were dropped off and he led the way through a maze of alleyways to a little guesthouse-style hotel hidden away behind high red sandstone walls.
Our Riad, a genuine traditional Marrakesh house, with a dozen rooms on three floors, windows overlooking a shady interior courtyard and splash pool, was beautifully renovated and decorated in Moroccan style.
Everyone was so friendly and we were given some sight seeing tips and a map Marrakesh Medina as we sat sipping mint tea. The rooftop terrace had incredible views over the old city quarters to the unmistakable Koutoubia Mosque.
Once a crossroads for caravans coming out of the Sahara Desert and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Marrakesh is an ancient walled city dating back to 1062.
Lying at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, the red city was originally built on an oasis and is still surrounded by date palm groves.
The impressive orangey-red ramparts which encircle the old city have 20 gateways; we were staying in the southern part of the Medina near Bab Agnaou, or Gate of the Blacks, the entrance to Marrakesh kasbah.
Map in hand, we stepped out into a vibrant world, a colourful mixture of traditions and culture to discover the Medina of Marrakesh. As you can see, visitors of all nationalities love the Souks.
See our related post: Cultural Heritage Sites in Marrakesh Medina
We headed for Jemaa el-Fnaa, one of the most famous squares in Africa and the focal point of life in Marrakesh Medina.
The huge market place is an authentic open air show bustling with European and Moroccan tourists attracted by the snake charmers, musicians, storytellers and food stalls. We had lunch on the first floor terrace at one of the restaurants overlooking the square and watched on in fascination.
We ordered tajine, a traditional Moroccan dish which is popular in Marrakesh. Made with local spices, there’s a variety of delicious recipes including chicken with lemon and olives. The ingredients are cooked slowly over hot coals in a coned shaped earthenware tajine in which it is then served.
Lamb and couscous Tajine is a traditional Marrakesh meal cooked in a typical earthenware pot.
We strolled over to the souks on the far side of Jemaa el-Fnaa, a traditional Berber market where you can buy almost anything if you have the patience to bargain hard enough. It’s like stepping into Aladdin’s Cave; an endless maze of walkways lined with stalls selling bejewelled slippers, colourful kaftans, silk scarves, intricately wrought lanterns and magic carpets. Shopping for souvenirs in Morocco is an amazing experience!
I’d planned a route but it was impossible to follow so we just wandered through the main souk avoiding the mopeds, push bikes and carts, and found ourselves in what was obviously the wool souk with artisans at work by the doorways of tiny shops, jars of natural bright dyes on display.
We watched as a man took natural wool and dipped it into a boiling cauldron of dye, another hanging the skeins out to dry and a boy weaving woollen slippers and hats. Walking on we browsed art shops with beautiful, over-priced, local paintings – my haggling skills weren’t appreciated here – and passed by the legendary carpet souk.
I was determined to find the Café Arabe, it was challenging but worth the perseverance! A European’s idea of heaven, this classy Italian restaurant has an exclusive roof terrace lounge bar. A respite from the heaving, hot streets, this was sheer luxury – cooled by a fine mist spraying from the canopy above, we laid back on soft cushions contemplating the view over the medina and enjoyed an ice cold lager!
You’ll get fairly disorientated in the souks but not hopelessly lost! You do eventually stumble across what you’re looking for, by chance when you least expect it, such as the famous sheep’s head stalls – I’ll try almost anything but I just posed for the photo this time! And invariably you end back at the main square. Marrakesh is safe to walk around, just take the normal precautions that you usually would in a busy tourist place to avoid being pickpocked.
In the evening dozens of popular food stalls are set up in Djemaa el-Fna market square and the atmosphere is even livelier. There’s an inviting display of cooked meats and vegetables on display although hygiene looks a bit risky. Moroccan tourists were crowded at the most popular places but the dishes were mainly offal, I was told.
I couldn’t leave with out sitting with the snake charmers. I had a smooth slim snake – non-poisonous I was assured – draped around my neck. My partner was horrified although, to be honest, I was more worried about the disheveled old man that had his arm round my shoulders. I watched in fascination as a cobra evilly darting back and forth at the young snake charmer crouched next to me, and I wondered if it was actually dangerous…
Koutoubia Mosque can be seen from Jemaa el-Fnaa at the end of a wide avenue which is lined with horse-drawn carriages. At sunset the minaret is spectacular, awesomely beautiful. Unlike other cities I’ve visited, such as Cairo or Istanbul, in Marrakesh non-Muslim visitors aren’t allowed into the mosques. I realize that a mosque isn’t a tourist attraction but I’d have loved the chance to take a respectful look inside to see the architecture and feel the atmosphere.
We were staying in a really authentic part of the southern Medina, away from the main tourist stretch. Going back to Riad Sidi Mimourne that evening we passed the men playing cards out on the street in front of their local café or teashop. Not quite sure what they call them!
Related posts on Marrakesh
- Marrakesh Medina – Heritage and Cultures
- Photos: Life in Marrakesh Medina
- Morocco on a women-only tour
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The cobra gave me the creeps too. That darting head looked so dangerous. You described your experience wonderfully and really made me feel I was back in the souks and market.