Bako National Park, Sarawak
The highlight of my Borneo adventure was a day out in Bako National Park.
Mr Chia, our friendly taxi driver, took us to the Bako Terminal river jetty just outside Kuching town, where we purchased tickets – these included the return fare across the Sarawak River to the nature reserve and the entrance fee, but we had to find someone else to share the small launch which takes four or five passengers. Fine, there was a friendly French couple waiting too, slight snag was we had to arrange to meet up later to get the same boat back together.
A short trip along the Sarawak taking in the scenery and we arrived at Bako, Borneo’s oldest National Park (2,727 hectares); it’s the most fascinating rainforest nature reserve, jutting into the China Sea on the Muara Tebas peninsula.
The wooden landing jetty is located in a mangrove swamp where bare trees are hauntingly immersed in the water, their branches reaching up to the sunlight.
On arrival we headed for the park HQ, to sign in at the registration counter and get info on the different trails. Our new French friends went for the shorter, hour long, walk to see the proboscis monkeys at Paku beach (800m from HQ) while Juan and I decided to explore a bit further to Pandan Kecil beach (2.6 km, estimated 1 ½ hours walk each way).
There’s a network of 16 nature trails in Bako, ranging from 30 minute strolls to 8 ½ hours hikes, taking in Borneo’s unique wildlife and fauna, beaches, waterfalls and viewpoints; many travelers book to stay overnight at the lodge or camp out with previous permission.
Our trail took us along the water’s edge through the amazing mangrove swamps, then cut inland and uphill though the forest and shrubs to a wide open rocky plain…it was burning hot up there in the full sun!
The next stretch of trail is beautifully tree-shaded, the path descending towards the coast. Pandan Kecil suddenly came into view far below, just like a scene out of the famous film ‘The Beach’.
This secluded beach is my idea of paradise – a fine sandy cove with a running stream at one end, warm turquoise calm sea with sea stacks just off the coast, it’s truly scenic.
There were only a few people around, friendly travellers from various parts of the globe – I chatted to Europeans from various countries and Australians, mainly nomads backpacking around Asia for several months or people touring Borneo on extended holidays.
We swam in the sea which was so warm it didn’t cool us off, then paddled in the freshwater stream and posed on a tree trunk like a film star for photo shots, finally sitting under a rock face that afforded a little shade eating fresh watermelon which some kids had brought with them on a hired boat and offered to everyone.
I waded out to the boat and persuaded the boatman to take some of us back, later on, to Bako HQ by sea and return for his clients at the prearranged time. A brilliant idea that gave us more time on the beach and avoided a long, hot walk!
We sailed past the sea stacks and took more photos before landing at the jetty again.
Spur of the moment, unplanned escapades like this are often the best part of a holiday, the ones which leave lasting memories.
As arranged, we met up with the French couple at the cafeteria, and enjoyed a cool drink on the verandah watching the monkeys swinging from the trees. Regretfully we had to leave.
After an exciting day out, that evening I dressed ‘elegantly’ for a change (kaftan and sandals instead of clammy t-shirt and shorts) and dined in the Absolute Tribal Restaurant at our hotel.
Alternative ways to reach Bako National Park:
If you’re staying in central Kuching, take the local bus to Bako Terminal, it’s cheap and you save the taxi fare.
Organised excursions and guided tours are also available to Bako National Park – book from your hotel or an authorised travel agency in Kuching.
Don’t forget adequate clothing and sun protection: hat, sunscreen, long-sleeved shirt, walking sandals, swimwear, towel, insect repellent, small rucksack with light picnic and lots of water…and your camera!
Time permitting, arrange to stay overnight in Bako National Park (accommodation can be booked in a chalet, the lodge, hostel or camp ground); enjoy the whole wildlife experience, sunrise and sunset surrounded by fascinating nature and the sounds of the jungle.
Websites of interest:
www.sarawakforestry.com
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