We crossed back over the River Sarawak on the little ferry to Kuching city, in time for a Santubong sunset cruise, that I’d booked at a waterfront tour office, to see the Sarawak lowlands and the wildlife of Santubong Peninsula.
Santubong River Sunset Cruise from Kuching (Borneo)
A minibus took us to the Santubong Boat Club a short drive away. Juan and I clambered into a small launch with the boatman, guide, and a friendly North American family with two children – Sue was born in Malaysia, an interesting lady who gave us some cool ideas for future visits, especially to Sabah, an adventurous region which is perfect for the ultimate Borneo backpacking experience.
The wide Santubong river was calm, the meandering mangrove swamps awesome, and the scenery magical. We were told the mythical legend of Mount Santubong as we slid by the mysterious mountain on our journey towards the estuary.
Our guide explained that at a certain point where the river water meets the salt water from the sea, there is a colony of unique Irrawaddy dolphins; the engine was turned off and we drifted – the dolphins soon came to see us, showing off their jumps and dives. Following this, we were fortunate enough to spot a white-bellied sea eagle flying overhead!
Further down the river, big mean looking crocodiles lazed on the muddy sandbanks that border the river. I passively shot photos but my husband tried to attract a croc’s attention… until it slithered into the water towards us, the brute almost the size of our boat! Crocodiles have been known to attack swimmers, and a few months previously one tried to take an adolescent who was bathing just off the idyllic beach that we’d just passed (but by poking his fingers in the animal’s eyes, the boy managed to get away).
The jungle comes down to meet the sandy riverbank in a place where we saw the rare Proboscis monkeys, swinging in the mangrove trees. They are orangey brown with a distinctive long snout.
Kampung Santubong, a traditional fishing village came into sight – the house shacks are built on high stilts. The fishermen, in gaily painted boats, were going out to fish with their nets for the evening.
The sunset was spectacular over the river, the red reflection glimmering on the water sending golden sparkles into the air.
The guide told us to be quiet and watch… a Proboscis monkey was swimming for shore, and, as he got to the beach two very macho Proboscis climbed out of the trees and walked slowly, menacingly towards the intruder, who quickly turned around and swam back into the middle of the river. However, the crocodiles were on the opposite bank, so as soon as the dominant males had swung back up their trees, the monkey in the river surreptitiously turned around and sneaked back again. Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay to see the outcome, but the guide said this was the first time he’d actually seen this happen – we were privileged.
It was dark as we came back past the jetty to a tree-lined stretch of river, the launch’s engine was cut and the light turned out. The firefly show began, their bright flickering on the branches looking like fairy lights on a Xmas trees, as they lit-up the mangrove.
That evening, hot and sticky with mosquito repellent, but with no time to change, we had dinner at a popular seafood centre that our new American friends had recommended. The Top Spot Food Court is located incongruously on the top story of a multistory carpark in the middle of Kuching.
The huge, crowed floor was filled with people at plastic tables and chairs, two walls lined with fresh fish stalls; it is a great, reasonably priced place to eat, though noisy and hot. We chose the stall with the very biggest prawns and ordered a dozen of them, also some squid and a big black fish (of unknown name) in butter sauce. The food was, yet again, wonderful.
Top Places to See In Borneo
BORNEO – Bako National Park, Sarawak
The highlight of my Borneo adventure was a day out in Bako National Park. A short trip along the Sarawak taking in the scenery and we arrived at Bako, Borneo’s oldest national park (2,727 hectares); it’s the most fascinating rainforest nature reserve, jutting into the China Sea on the Muara Tebas peninsula.
BORNEO – Bau, Fairy Caves & Blue Lake, Sarawak
Hearing that we wanted to explore beyond the tourists spots in Kuching, local girls Lucy and Jennifer drove us to rural Sarawak – to Bau fresh food market, on to explore the eerie Wind Caves, to a secret beach by the Kanan River, to the sacred Fairy Cave, and finally to Tasik Biru (Blue Lake).
BORNEO – Kuching ‘Cat City’ & Sarawak Cruise
Kuching (Cat City) is an important trading port with a colourful history. People from very different cultures have come to live in Borneo’s capital city over the centuries; the original Sarawak tribesmen have been joined by mainland Malays, Indonesian Muslims, Chinese miners, Indian Sikhs and British colonial…
Kuching Waterfront – Top Places to See in Sarawak (Borneo)
I was actually going to Kuching in Borneo! A vast, remote, exotic island full of adventure stories with headhunting tribes and blow darts…hey, wake me up I must be dreaming! Borneo pertains, as if it’s sliced across the middle lengthwise, to two nations – Malaysia and Indonesia.
Northern Bank of Sarawak River, Kuching
Next morning we caught a small, colourful wooden ferry boat over to the northern bank of the Sarawak River. The boatman punts off when the ‘tambang’ riverboat has enough passengers, mainly locals, school children and families. This side of the river is totally different from Kuching Waterfront and the main town…
Penang Island (Insider Guide) – Top Things to Do and See
Our Penang Island ‘insider guide’ explains the top things to do and see in Malaysia’s top holiday destination. A tropical island with exotic beaches, rain forests, beautiful temples, World Heritage Sites, and amazing food.
Unique Places To See In Malaysia
Looking for somewhere unusual to visit in Malaysia? Whether you’re staying in Borneo, on Penang Island, in the Highlands or Kuala Lumpur city, you’ll love our choice of unique places to see in Malaysia.
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