Munroe Island – 2 days in Kerala Backwaters, India

Munroe Island – 2 days discovering a legendary paradise in Kerala Backwaters, India.

There’s a secluded island hidden somewhere in the South Indian Kerala backwaters…travellers talk about a perfect tropical inland island but no one knows the name or location. Intrigued by the legend, I investigated and actually went there myself, to paradise Munroe Island!

Juan and I caught the local bus from Trivandrum city to Kollam [Quilon] where I negotiated hard with a tuk tuk driver to take us there – this includes a primitive crossing where the vehicle boards a platform ferry for the short ride across River Kallada to Munroe Island.

We stayed at Munroe Nest Homestay which belongs to Vishnu, a local man with an amazing character whose parents, grandparents and great-grandparents, and no doubt remote ancestors lived here. The beautiful palm fringed island has little tourism and I hope it stays that way!

Vishnu himself is a legend, friendly and remarkably knowledgeable, and so Bollywoody dramatic as he plays the part and takes visitors down the waterways in his typical wooden canoe. His big dream was to have a homestay for his guests and so he built Munroe Nest, two traditional cabins set beside a tiny canal. His mother Indira helps run the bed and breakfast, keeping the place clean and tidy, and cooking tasty veggie food.

We could only stay two nights because the popular homestay was fully booked. The first afternoon I went for a walk and as it got dark saw the local Hindu temples were being lit with hundreds of tiny coconut oil lamps, and islanders were placing them along the walls of their homes. Later Vishnu took us along to a ‘tree shrine’ where everyone was celebrating the Karthika Festival of Lights, a once in a year event that coincides with full moon in December! People were singing and playing instruments, and handing out platefuls of creamy sweet coconut rice.

Juan and I got up just after five next morning, climbed into the little canoe moored opposite our cabin and Vishnu silently punted off into the mist…you have to remember to duck down low every so often as you get to little bridges.

We slid past mangroves onto wider canals all the time listening to bird song …I got to recognize the sound of Eagles as they called out and saw them flying overhead. We came out onto Ashtamudi Lake just as morning broke and the sun rose over the waters. It was purely magical. Vishnu plays the part and looks magnificent in his turban and traditional orange dhotis.

At Munroe’s Nest give you free use of bicycles too, so Juan and I went off for a ride later that morning. The island is bigger than it looks, some 13.4 km² with typical village shops, schools and medical centres….a beautiful peaceful island criss-crossed with canals, where you walk along the lanes speaking to the friendly locals, coming across small temples and shrines, see people tending their land, fishing or pruning coconut trees.

In the afternoon Vishnu showed us around, to see a cashew nut factory which keeps the ladies employed although the hours are long and the wages low. There are king prawn farms and coconut ‘home industries’ producing culinary and cosmetic oils, and fabrics. We visited the local infants’ schoolroom, and went to a friend’s house where the daughter showed us tapestry she was weaving for a school project.

Although the area is self-sufficient, some of the men work abroad in the Gulf States and return home to build smart houses which contrast with the traditional homes made with matted coconut leaves. We learnt about the wildlife, fruit trees and spice plants.

Eventually we came out beside the Dutch church by the lakeside to see the sun set on a perfect day and then returned for dinner.

Indira made a lovely meal using local produce. It was a shame it was not prawn season! Breakfast was Indian vegetarian too, a mild spiced potato dish, rice pancakes, fresh banana or pineapple, and tea.

Surprisingly Munroe Island has a railway station, it is on the main South Indian Railway line but few trains stop here. Vishnu took us partway to the station in the canoe, and we transferred to a tuk-tuk, then bought tickets at the small station booth for the morning express to Alleppey. A public ferry travels this scenic route every other day through the major backwaters, but unfortunately the timings didn’t coincide with our plans.

Munroe Island is comprised of eight peaceful isles in the picturesque Kerala backwaters just inland from the Arabian Sea, and named after Coronal John Munro who supervised the area during colonial rule, a respected man who invested tax collection in local amenities. After Independence in 1947 many Indian towns changed name, but the villagers proudly kept Munroe Thuruth {Island] and a legacy which means a wonderfully clean and healthy environment.