Travelling like a local on Sarfaq Ittuk (the Greenland Coastal Ferry) from Nuuk to Ilulissat, the iceberg capital of the world.
Cold, remote and remarkably beautiful. There’s nowhere quite like Greenland.
A 2-day voyage on the Sarfaq Ittuk (the local passenger ferry that sails along the Greenlandic coast) is easy to do. It’s a simple way to enjoy the beauty of Greenland on an independent and pocket-friendly trip.
The Greenland Coastal Ferry follows the west coast, from the southern town of Qaqortoq to Ilulissat, almost a thousand kilometres further north. In this article, we’re focusing on the stretch from Greenland’s capital city Nuuk to Ilulissat, a pioneering settlement in the Arctic Circle where you can see some of the biggest icebergs in the world.
Imagine travelling like a local in Greenland, enjoying an authentic experience to the polar region, getting up close to nature’s raw icy beauty, without the confines (and considerable expense) of an arctic cruise or organised tour.
Greenland’s icy climate means that Sarfaq Ittuk’s weekly ferry schedule runs from March to January as far as Sisimiut. The entire route up to Ilulissat is only navigable from May to August.
Before you start planning, have a look at our related post on visiting Greenland, to get ideas on other places to see and how to combine them with the ferry trip.
Original text and photography by Karen Warren and Julie Nielsen who recently travelled on the Sarfaq Ittuk, the Greenland coastal ferry. Julie sailed from Nuuk to Sisimiut to see the colonial settlement where her grandmother was born. Karen stayed aboard the Sarfaq Ittuk, for the 2 day journey from Nuuk to Ilulissat, the iceberg capital of the world.
This is their first-hand account of the voyage, travelling with the local Greenlander passengers on the Sarfaq Ittuk ferry.
* There are no international ferry services to Greenland itself. Both ladies started their Greenland adventure by flying into the country from Northern Europe – Julie arrived on a flight from Denmark, and Karen flew in after spending a week travelling around Iceland.
Travelling Like A Local On The Greenland Coastal Ferry
“A highlight of my trip to Greenland was the trip by boat from Nuuk to Ilulissat. This is a two night voyage on the Sarfaq Ittuk, a 52-cabin ship that sails along the coast of Greenland every week of the year (weather permitting). It’s a transport service for the locals, but tourists are welcome; it is a unique way to discover the country and its culture.
Essential Local Transport In Greenland
“Sarfaq Ittuk, the Greenland coastal ferry, is an essential transport service for local people. But it is also an unforgettable experience for travellers visiting the country.
Greenland is a country with no roads between settlements. To get from one place to another you go by sea, or air. I chatted to a woman who was on her way back from a business trip in Nuuk. Short local journeys are a little easier in winter, she said, because you can travel by dog sledge or snowmobile.
Sarfaq Ittuk goes from Qaqortoq in the south to Ilulissat, inside the Arctic Circle. The arrival of the ship in a port is obviously a social occasion, with people standing on the quayside waving Greenlandic flags as they wait for family and friends to disembark. We watched a girl showing off her new graduation cap and children greeting their grandparents.
Arrival at a port isn’t necessarily the end of the story: the harbour at Kangaamiut is too small for the ship. All the passengers – including the smallest child – had to don a life jacket and climb into a bright orange tender boat before being driven to the shore. The tender also carries cargo, as the boat is essential for delivery of mail, shopping and other supplies.
Films are shown on board but generally people make their own entertainment. Board games are stacked up for the passengers’ use and families were playing cards in the lounge. There were impromptu parties, and an old man was entertaining his friends with stories in the local Inuit language.
Travelling On The Sarfaq Ittuk As A Tourist
“Although Sarfaq Ittuk is a service for local people, it also caters for tourists. It is possible to sleep on a couchette, but most tourists opt for a cabin, giving them shower facilities and a sea view. There is a cafeteria for meals, but don’t expect much in the way of haute cuisine (this is a country where most food – other than fish or marine mammals – has to be imported).
In good weather you can stand on the deck to admire the scenery and try to spot whales, or you can watch from the comfort of the Panorama Lounge.
In the summer months a daily itinerary is posted for those who want to make the most of their experience. Some of the port stops are very brief, but others last for an hour or two and local tours are arranged for anyone who wants to stretch their legs and explore a little.
A big moment in the trip is crossing the Polar Circle, and I have a certificate to prove that I have done it!”
Starting The Greenland Ferry Trip In Nuuk
Julie Nielsen is a teacher from Denmark, she recently travelled with her husband and children on the The Sarfaq Ittuk from Nuuk to Sisimiut.
“Last summer I travelled to Greenland for 2 weeks to discover my family roots (my great-grandfather was a colonial settler in the coastal town of Sisimiut).
My husband and I flew from Copenhagen to Nuuk. There are no direct international flights to Sisimiut itself. The only way to get here is on local flight, or aboard the Greenland coastal ferry which departs once a week. This boat trip is a great opportunity to observe the Greenlandic way of life.
First of all, it’s worth staying in Nuuk for a few days. There’s so much history here!
The old town is beautifully kept and filled with colonial buildings. The Church of Our Saviour, which is also known as Nuuk Cathedral, is one of these. It’s a brightly coloured wooden structure with a tall spire which has been standing here since 1849. We visited the Greenland National Museum and the Nuuk Local Museum. These museums are particularly interesting and easy to find.
We went to the local restaurants and cafés for brunch and lunch. The food was great and it was a pleasure sitting outside to eat. In July, the weather was sunny and mild most of the time. I thought it would have been colder than it actually was. It feels warmer than the temperature shows because the air in Greenland is dry.
Nuuk is a walkable city, and very easy to get around. The local buses cheap and simple to use.
While in Nuuk we hiked a lot. First of all, along trails which border the fjord, past meadows of tiny wild flowers with overwhelming views to the mountains.
The scenic route beside Cirkus Lake is another walk I enjoyed. We also trekked up the Quassussuaq, a smaller mountain which is pretty easy to climb.
Nuuk is a good place to shop for Greenlandic handcraft like tupilakker and jewellery, knitwear, beadwork, and a lot more. I bought some beautiful mementoes to bring back home to Denmark.
Sailing From Nuuk To Sisimiut
“After leaving Nuuk we travelled north to Sisimiut on the local ferry, the Sarfaq Ittuk, sailing up the Greenlandic west coast. It’s a pleasant trip, with not too many people aboard. The restaurant serves delicious meals with a choice of international, Danish, and the more traditional Greenlandic food.
The first stop is Maniitsoq, a settlement on Maniitsoq Island. My grandmother was born here more than a century ago! It’s only a brief 15 minute stop to let passengers on and off. However, I was allowed to step out of the ferry just to feel the ground of Maniitsoq under my feet when I told them the reason. That meant a lot to me. This was the place where everything started for my dear grandmother.
Back on board the coastal ferry, the view of the mountains close to Maniitsoq almost took my breath away. But the most amazing moment was spotting a whale, and seeing icebergs floating by.
The next port of call is Kangaamiut, a small island north of Maniitsoq, close to the mouth of Kangerlussuatsiaq Fjord (Evighedsfjorden in Danish).
During the short stop at this isolated settlement, local people get on and off, and supplies are offloaded. Some 300 inhabitants live in Kangaamiut and the weekly ferry is their only contact with the outside world. The other passengers stay on board, and like ourselves, watch with scene from the open deck.
The view from the ferry is unique, all those quaint houses made of wood and painted in different colours are picture-perfect, exactly how you imagine a Greenlandic village would be.
The ferry trip from Nuuk to Sisimiut takes about 24 hours. We finally arrived, tired but happy about our decision to take Greenland’s coastal ferry instead of the regional flight. It’s a great adventure and we enjoyed it very much. Standing on the deck looking at the mountains while sailing close to Maniitsoq is something that I will never forget!
Visiting Historical Sisimiut
“My grandmother was a Greenlander, and we’d taken the Sarfaq Ittuk to Sisimiut to see where she’d been brought up back in the colonial days.
At that time Sisimiut had a Danish name. It was called Holsteinsborg. The original settlement buildings are a part of Sisimiut Museum today. Each one holds an interesting exhibition, showing how the people lived in Sisimiut so many years ago.
The old yellow house, called Gammelhuset in Danish, was built in 1756 and is the oldest house in Sisimiut (and one of the oldest houses in Greenland). The interior was undergoing restoration when we visited Sisimiut last summer, but it is now open again in 2024.
It is fascinating to think that my ancestors once lived in the big red house opposite! I remember my grandmother telling me, that when she was a child, people played the accordion and danced outside the old yellow house in summertime.
More than a 100 years ago, my great grandfather was the colony manager of Sisimiut and he resided with his wife and children in ‘The Colonial Manager’s House’. Built in 1846, it’s called the ‘Kolonibestyrerboligen’ in Danish.
As you can imagine, visiting this house is very special to me. I have heard so many stories through the years from my grandmother about the colony, the houses and the people living here. Just being inside the house to see my family’s old living room and looking out of the same windows as they did over a century ago, was amazing.
Just across from the old house (Gammelhuset) and the colony manager’s house, is the old Blue Church. Built in 1775, this is the oldest church in Greenland that is still intact. In Danish it is called Bethel Kirken.
Sisimiut’s famous Blue Church is beautifully restored inside. It’s amazing to think that my great grandparents and their children went to Sunday service here more than a century ago!
Stopping Over In Sisimiut
“If you’re planning to stay in Sisimiut for a few days in summer as I did, there’s plenty to do after seeing the historical sites. Summertime is perfect for hiking as the weather is mild. Around the town there are well-marked walking trails into the countryside which is alive with wild flowers after the winter snow has melted away. Sea activities include kayaking and boat tours.
The Sarfaq Ittuk does a weekly route, up and down Greenland’s west coast, so, if you’ve decided to stop over in Sisimiut, you’ll need to wait 7 days to continue on to Ilulissat by ferry. Flying out of Sisimiut airport is another option (there are flights to Ilulissat and Nuuk, or to the inland town of Kangerlussuaq, and from here you can get connecting flights to Denmark or Iceland).”
Julie’s trip on the Sarfaq Ittuk ends in Sisimiut. This is most northern ice-free port in Greenland, so the ferry can usually dock here throughout the year. From here onwards, the weather is icier and the coastal towns can only be reached by sea in the summer.
The Voyage From Sisimiut to Ilulissat
Karen Warren continues the story as she sails on the Sarfaq Ittuk, a 2-day voyage from Nuuk to Ilulissat which is only possible in summertime.
“Travelling on the Greenland coastal ferry from Nuuk to Ilulissat, there’s a 2 hour stop in Sisimiut. We had a brief tour of the historical old town before sailing onwards.
Coastal Scenery And The Midnight Sun.
One of the main attractions of the trip on the Sarfaq Ittuk is the coastal scenery. At first the ship steers a course between small islands and, apart from the settlements, the view is mostly of snow-capped mountains. There were lots of birds and I glimpsed the tip of a humpback whale in the distance.
At many times of the year there is the possibility of seeing the Northern Lights, but for us it was the astonishing spectacle of the Midnight Sun (I didn’t see darkness – or even twilight – the whole time I was in Greenland).
We saw our first iceberg on the second morning. This was amazing enough but as the day went on we found ourselves surrounded by icebergs of all shapes and sizes. We were now in the ice field that took us all the way to Ilulissat, our final destination (and the iceberg capital of the world…)
Ilulissat: The Iceberg Capital Of The World
“We were out at sea, surrounded by icebergs of all shapes and sizes. It was almost midnight, and the sun was hovering in the sky, casting an otherworldly light on the ice. I have never seen anything like it. This is Ilulissat, the iceberg capital of the world, on the west coast of Greenland.
I realised I didn’t actually know what icebergs were, or how they were formed. I discovered that these are freshwater icebergs that have broken off (or “calved”) from massive glaciers on the land.
Because new ice is constantly forming, and pressing down on the layers of ice beneath, it is the bits at the bottom that are squeezed out. By the time the ice gets to the sea it could be thousands of years old.
Ilulissat is said to be the “iceberg capital of the world” because of its proximity to Sermeq Kujalleq, one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world. Certainly we were surrounded by icebergs all the time we were there, even though it was the height of summer.
We even had a view of the ice field from our hotel room, allowing us to watch the way the icebergs change, and moved about, from one day to the next. The area has a dubious claim to fame: it is said that the iceberg that sank the Titanic had its origin in Greenland.
Icebergs Of All Shapes And Sizes
“I had heard that icebergs come in just about any shape and size you care to imagine, but I didn’t really believe it until I saw for myself. There are small ice floes; towering blocks with caves at the base; and pieces so perfectly sculpted they hardly seemed natural.
I found myself giving names to them: the Disney castle, the walled city, the oyster shell, and numerous whales or giants on their backs.
Another surprise was the colours. The pure white ice can have a smooth or snowy surface. Or it can pick up dirt as it moves from land to sea, resulting in black or striped icebergs.
Then there is the blue ice. This contains little or no air, and a higher concentration of water than the white ice, causing it to reflect blue light while absorbing other colours.
Sometimes the ice is black…and sometimes it’s blue! Iceberg photos copyright Karen Warren.
Watching The Icebergs At Ilulissat
“Our first sight of icebergs was when we entered the Arctic Circle on the Greenland Coastal Ferry. But it was at Ilulissat where we saw the most impressive ice field, and it was from here that we sailed among the icebergs at midnight.
Although we were lucky enough to see the midnight sun, the ice is also spectacular at other times of year, when it is often illuminated by the northern lights.
If you go further out to sea you may spot a whale or, less frequently (because they are extensively fished), a seal. You will certainly see lots of birds, sometimes perched on the ice, their feet seemingly immune to the cold.
For the locals the sea is a source of food, but it is also a playground.
We saw canoes and small fishing boats at all times of day and night, and in winter the packed ice becomes a place for dog sledding.
As for us, we toasted the midnight sun with a glass of whisky and a chunk of glacier ice. The ice, we were told, was 3000 years old. It really is an experience like no other.
Keeping Warm With A Greenlandic Coffee
“If all that talk of ice has made you shiver, the Greenlanders have the perfect solution – a warming Greenlandic coffee. I was shown how to make this in my hotel in Ilulissat, and I can guarantee that it warms you up! It also has an interesting story – have a look at my video for the instructions and the story.”
About the Authors
Karen Warren is an independent traveller, freelance writer, book reviewer and novelist. She writes about travel on her website WorldWideWriter.
Julie Nielsen is a teacher and descendent of Greenland pioneers, who lives near Copenhagen in Denmark. This is a photo of Julie in front of her late great-grandfather’s home, the Colonial Manager’s House in Sisimiut. See more photos of her trip on the Sarfaq Ittuk on her Facebook Group Nature in Greenland.
Useful Info About Travelling On The Sarfaq Ittuk
- Sarfaq Ittuk is part of the Arctic Umiaq Line.
- This is the weekly ferry service which runs back and forth along Greenland’s west coast, from the southern settlement of Narsaq to the northern settlement of Uummannaq.
- Ferry timetable:
- Nuuk to Sisimiut weekly departures from 20th March 2024 to 9th January 2025. The voyage takes approx. 24 hours.
- Nuuk to Ilulissat schedule runs from 8th May to 6th August, 2024. The voyage takes just under 2 days.
- The ship carries a maximum of 228 passengers.
- Pets are allowed on board (check prices and restrictions before booking).
- Overnight travellers can book a couchette (8 bunk beds per cabin with shared bathroom), private ensuite 4 bed cabins, or 2 bed suites.
- Café Sarfaq serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Booking in advance gives you a discount on meals. There are also snack and hot drink vending machines onboard.
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