Discovering Sri Lanka – Kandy, Giragama Estate tea plantations, and Embekke, Lankathilake and Gadaladeniya ancient temples.
Embekke, Lankathilake and Gadaladeniya are the possibly the most interesting ancient temples in Sri Lanka’s central highlands region, not far from the legendary town of Kandy.
Our last day in Kandy was the one I loved most…the guide was nonplussed our itinerary didn’t coincide with the standard programme – it stated a visit to a tea plantation and three temples…
After agitated phone calls with the tour company headquarters in Colombo, he devised a route with the help of his dependable driver and we had an amazing day!
Geragama Estate Tea Plantation
Sri Lanka’s main tea plantations are further north in the highlands…but the driver sourced one not far from Kandy, the Geragama Estate.
We drove past the tea fields stopping to take photos, and then visited the traditional Ceylon tea factory…we were the only visitors we realized as we were shown around.
The various techniques were explained and we saw the freshly picked leaves, how they were dried, and several other processes using fairly rudimentary equipment.
Finally we enjoyed a cup of authentic Ceylon brew in the tea shop, and bought packets to take back home to the family.
Ancient Temples Near Kandy
The three temples we visited were also off the tourist route… beautiful 14th century temples, none of them ostentatious, just a few kilometres out of Kandy. Our trusty driver headed into the countryside and got lost! He asked some local folk for directions and eventually followed a muddy lane beside the Mahaveli River bank.
Embekke Devale Temple
We seemed to cause some excitement arriving at the little village of Embekke… not many foreigners come this way I imagine, and the few devotees we saw appeared to be Sri Lankans.
The ancient Devale was apparently built in in honor of King Mahasena who ruled in the third century, and was it later used as a resting place for pilgrims.
Just inside the compound, the Drummer’s Hall is a large rectangular open-sided pergola with a beamed roof supported by intricately carved pillars… lotus flowers, hybrid elephants and lions, dancers and horseback warriors, entwined swans and many other figures are engraved into the woodwork. The temple also has a wooden Dancing Hall and an inner sanctum with beautiful deity images.
We were used to walking barefoot around the temples, and here we were expected to take our sandals off before entering the local craft shop too. Only a few minutes’ drive along the track, I realized I had left my sandals behind on the doorstep…the villagers were waiting for me, grins splitting their faces, it was really so funny!
Lankathilaka Viharaya Temple
The next historical temple was we saw was totally different – Lankathilaka looks like an imposing white mansion on a hilltop overlooking a picturesque valley of terraced rice fields. It is a steep walk up the stone steps cut but the views are amazing and the temple quite fascinating.
Several young monks dressed in orange robes were standing by an old archway contemplating the horizon (a primitive flight of steps cut into the rock leads down to their dwellings below).
Like all Buddhist temples, there is a magnificent Bo tree and lovely white stupa in the grounds.
Our guide took us into the main temple, the Buddha Image House which has remarkable stonework at the entrance… a traditional Moonstone on the ground, lions with an elephant’s head carved into the balustrades, and the dragon guarding the archway which is embellished with painted lions.
The shrine room itself features a golden seated Buddha image with angels overhead, and amazing centuries old wall murals portray the life story the different Buddhas.
The Temple of the Gods is another section dedicated to the worshiping the various Gods, a smaller shrine which is reached through a separate entrance.
I wandered outside onto the flat slabs of rock to take photos – several months later I was horrified to see in a TV documentary that cobras live underneath! Fortunately, one of the monks had given me a blessed twined thread bracelet which obviously kept me safe!
Gadaladeniya Viharaya Temple
The third temple we visited, Gadaladeniya is an ancient monastery built on a flat rock. There are four white pagodas with small shrine rooms and flower offerings, and a large Bo tree outside; ancient stone statues resembling dragons and elephants guard the entrance to the main sanctuary which has ornately carved solid wood doors.
Inside it’s fairly dark and we were advised not to use a flash to take photos of the fading murals – frescoes of Gods decorate a dragon arch and stone columns are carved with elephants and other traditional Indian figures.
A magnificent Buddha is sitting at the back of the shrine and there are four standing images – a monk sadly explained to our guide that the Buddha’s original jade eyes had been stolen by thieves.
Back in Kandy, our driver stopped at the train station to get tickets, as we were leaving by rail the next day and heading for the famous Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. On our last evening at the Hotel Suisse, we enjoyed a BBQ dinner and relaxed with a cocktail. Preparations were going on in the banquet hall for a wedding, and in the morning we were lucky enough to see the bride and groom…
Related Posts on Sri Lanka
Follow our travels through Sri Lanka to discover the wonders of this beautiful country.
- Sri Lanka the Emerald Isle – Colombo City Tour
- Visiting Dambulla, Sigiriya & Polonnaruwa
- Spice Gardens & Batik in Matale / Sacred Temple Kandy
- Kandy: Peradeniya Botanical Gardens / Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic
- Kandy: Giragama tea plantation / Embekke, Lankathilake & Gadaladeniya temples
- Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage
- Negombo Beach and Catamarans
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