Three of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai is an ancient walled city surrounded by a moat in North Thailand. More than 300 Buddhist temples make it one of the most atmospheric destinations in South East Asia.
The 8.30 morning express from Bangkok arrives in Chiang Mai early evening after a long journey through breathtaking scenery of paddy fields, sugar plantations and jungle. Juan and I shared a red songthaew pickup with some other travellers which dropped us off at our aptly named Moat Hostel right beside the old city walls, opposite the wide moat which is attractively lit at night.
We grabbed a seat at a nearby mu kratha restaurant and enjoyed a new dining experience! The eat-as-much-as-you-like signs beckoned temptingly after 11 hours on the train.
A mu kratha charcoal grill and earthenware hot pot are set on each table, and you barbeque ingredients over the heat of glowing embers –just put slivers of raw meats and fish, or crack an egg to sizzle on the dome shaped griddle, while fresh veggie salad and varied mushrooms simmer in boiling stock. There’s steamed rice and spicy dipping sauces to accompany.
Chiang Mai was originally founded in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom and many of the temples date to this period. We entered the old town through Suan Dok Gate, it’s on the west side and a few minutes’ walk from the iconic Pra Singh temple.
A plan of the historic quarter shows a square grid of small streets and alleyways enclosed by remnants of thick walls and landmark gateways encircled by the moat, so it’s not easy to get lost although you’ll likely get sidetracked into any one of the beautiful 30 temples within the ancient city.
I couldn’t resist Wat Prasat which looks incredibly old but ‘only’ dates to the 16th century. It’s a small, unpretentious temple in tree-shaded grounds. There are two stone stupas or ‘chedi’ as they are called in Thailand; one is a plain white dome with a golden spire and the other is pagoda-style with arched niches sheltering sacred images.
The ornate ‘viharn’ prayer hall has mythical Naga serpents guarding the steps that lead up to the entrance and golden Buddha images resting on pedestals in front of the altar inside. A similar tiered roof stone and wood building with elaborate gilded windows is the ‘ubosot’, a Buddhist ordination hall.
Directly opposite you can see the extraordinary silhouette of Wat Pra Singh (1345). Lion statues guard the entrance-way to this legendary Golden Temple on Ratchadamnoen road. Two magnificent gold chedi fill the central patio.
Elephant statues emerge from the gleaming sides of the huge main chedi, as if half molten, looking on while orange robed monks and sundry worshippers walk around the base whispering a prayer ritual.
A ‘Royal Temple of the First Grade’, a community of Buddhist monks live here in typical lodging quarters and many more come on a visit. Noteworthy structures include the original Viharn Lai Kham Phra.
Made of gilded wood in 1345, the interior decoration is extraordinary with distinctive red columns and interesting wall murals. The emblematic Phra Singh Buddha is seated at the far end on a lacquered dais altar embellished with gold leaf.
The Viharn Luang is even more spectacular and, although this chapel was rebuilt in the 20th century, the priceless gold sitting Buddha in the interior is authentic and dates back to 1477. A wood engraved Ordination Hall is earlier 19th century and once again features remarkable Buddha images, including a replica of the famous emerald Buddha.
The Buddhist library containing very old religious scriptures is another spiritual treasure, housed in an elaborate 15th century wooden building it is raised on a stone platform adorned by mythological sculptures.
It’s fascinating to walk around the whole compound slowly discovering the numerous small chedi and wooden structures, like the one with a row of small seated Buddha images in different mantras or another showcasing a gigantic reclining Buddha.
Like all the temples I visited in Chiang Mai old town, entrance was free of charge although devotees and visitors are welcome to donate contributions. Sunset is a beautiful time to see this place with the glow of the waning sun backlighting the gold domes while incense fills the air and flickering candles burn bright.
The path beside the moat is a scenic walk with most of the busy traffic outside the walled city. Coming to the southwest corner you’ll find the Buak Hard Public Park…green lawns, trees, ornamental shrubbery and flowers, a large lake crossed by romantic bridges and an oriental pagoda with red lanterns at the far end.
The park is a favourite haunt for students and expats (Chiang Mai is a popular city for digital nomads), great for a quiet read and chat, or a quick rest before seeing more temples!
From here it’s not far to the silversmith village, across the moat from Suan Prung Gate, a few streets from the walled enclosure. Venture into the neighbourhood and you can hear the distinctive hammering of metal even before one of the craftsmen comes into sight sitting on a stool in a small front yard, rhythmically beating silver plate.
The Silver Temple is located in the heart of this district on Wualai Road, and is probably the most unique site in the whole of Thailand – Wat Sri Suphan is entirely panelled in real silver, the filigree decoration is a fabulous work of art that defies description. It looks like a set from an imaginary wonderland film scene with gorgeous silver statues of deities and sacred creatures making this really special.
The silver ordination hall is the prime attraction and there is a nominal fee to enter this part of the complex –only men are allowed inside the holy sanctuary where the priests are ordained. Juan took off his shoes and entered, took a few photos to show the ornate silver sheaved interior.
You can get good shots of the temple from outside the cordoned off area, so I didn’t really need to buy a ticket. The stunning Viharn can be freely visited by everyone, just remember ladies should cover shoulders, arms and legs.
Back at the moat, Juan and I followed the waterway east from Chiang Mai Gate beyond the walled city towards the River Ping and crossed the iron bridge to the opposite bank. Strolling along the attractive river walk you can look over to the downtown skyline.
Narawat bridge leads back towards Tha Phae Gate, passing through the trendy part of town where luxury boutique hotels and gourmet eateries rub shoulders with international fast food chains and live music bars. This is the busy end of town packed with tourists of all nationalities browsing the clothes stalls and food booths in the night market and walking street.
Cutting back from east to west the streets become quieter, international becomes local and there’s some genuine little Thai restaurants…family run affairs with mother and a couple of late teen daughters, cooking to order in front of your eyes…nothing posh or fashionable just some of the best food I have ever tasted!
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